Fasnacht in Appenzell: masks, bells and Alpine tradition

In one of Switzerland’s most picturesque corners—the Appenzell region—an unusual winter celebration returns each year. It’s called Fasnacht. It is a carnival, but not the kind we usually picture. There are no flashy shows, roaring crowds or fireworks. Instead come snow, carved wooden masks, the ring of bells and a time-honored tradition passed down through generations.

What is Fasnacht?

Fasnacht is an age-old Swiss festival held before the start of Lent. You could compare it to Maslenitsa or other carnivals, yet in Appenzell it unfolds in its own way—quietly, beautifully and with deep respect for custom.

While Basel’s Fasnacht is a large city spectacle, Appenzell’s remains a local celebration that keeps its cozy, family feeling. Everything here happens for the people who live nearby—and for those who want to catch the real spirit of Switzerland rather than simply collect snapshots.

How does it begin?

The first key moment is Ommetrommere, when, on the eve of Dirty Thursday—the last Thursday before Lent—drummers make their way across the central square. They set the rhythm and signal that the festivities are about to start.

Saturday brings the main day, Faschnedsamstig, when the whole town wakes up. People put on masks and costumes and take to the streets.

Little horses and the chime of bells

The most recognizable sight of the Appenzell carnival is the Botzerössli. These are wooden horse figures worn at the waist so performers look as if they are galloping through the streets. Drums and the bright chime of bells accompany them and carry the sound across town.

Children and adults prepare their costumes in advance and practice the movements so everything looks polished and in sync. It’s not just entertainment—it is a living piece of local culture.

Music, masks and a singular mood

Music fills the streets, played by the local brass ensemble known as Guggenmusik. Its sound is distinctive enough that, once you’ve heard it, you recognize it instantly.

And then there are the masks. They aren’t like the ones at Brazilian carnivals: these are carved or made of fabric, often in restrained colors. They can be eerie, comic or simply unusual—each carrying its own story.

Bells are an essential part of the costume. Fastened to a belt or hat, they ring with every step, creating a soundscape that isn’t noisy, but feels vividly alive.

Why here feels different

Appenzell isn’t a big city but a snug Alpine enclave. Snow, quiet and mountains frame the festival, and that setting changes the experience. You feel less like a spectator and more like a part of something genuine.

It all looks like a scene from a storybook: white snow, people in traditional dress, the chime of bells and a joy that isn’t for show but reads as sincere.

Who makes it happen?

The festival is prepared by local residents. One of the main organizers is Fasnachtsverein Appenzell, a club that oversees the schedule, processions and overall spirit. They publish dates, routes and information for anyone who wants to take part or simply watch.

In 2026 the celebration will return in February. The current dates and program are already available on the club’s site.

If you want to see it for yourself

If you plan to go, arrive with an open heart. You don’t have to participate; it’s enough to be there, to hear the drumbeat and feel the warmth of local tradition. This festival isn’t for ticking a box or curating a feed. It’s about people, about history, and about winter—which in Appenzell has a sound all its own.